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LG Oven / Range · Error Code
CODE F3

LG F3Oven temp sensor open/short (varies by model — read the legend)

An LG F3 is an oven temperature sensor fault (the exact meaning varies by model — check your legend), where the sensor reads open or shorted and the oven can't regulate. It's usually a cheap sensor swap: the probe unclips inside the oven and unplugs behind the back panel. Ohm-test it to confirm — a cold sensor reads around 1080 ohms.

🔧 From our repair bench: F3 is the temp sensor on most LG ranges — ohm it out (about 1080Ω cold) before you ever suspect the board.

🐜 Straight talk: this points you at the likely cause — it's not a guarantee, and every machine is different. Cut the power (and shut off gas or water) before you touch anything, test to confirm the part is actually bad before you buy, and if it's beyond you, get a pro. No shame in that.

What the code means

F3: Oven temp sensor open/short (varies by model — read the legend)

Oven temp sensor open/short (varies by model — read the legend).
Most likely causes
  • Oven Temp Sensor
  • Sensor Harness
The 2-minute test → Ohm the oven sensor; check the harness. Confirm the exact meaning on the model tech sheet.
The kit

The Tools to Test + Fix With

You don't need a shop full of tools — you need these. The multimeter is the one that pays for itself the first time it stops you buying the wrong part on a fault code.

Digital multimeter

Test a suspect part for continuity BEFORE you buy — the single best way to avoid replacing the wrong thing on a fault code.

🔎 On Amazon →

Nut driver set (¼" + 5⁄16")

Most appliance panels are held on with ¼" and 5⁄16" hex screws.

🔎 On Amazon →

Screwdriver set (Phillips/flat/Torx)

Covers the odd panel screw and the Torx fasteners many brands use.

🔎 On Amazon →
Fix it — two honest options

The Fix — Free Checks First, Then the Part

Work top-down: the free checks before you spend a dime, and test to confirm the part is actually bad before you buy. When it is a part, you get both options — the genuine OEM part sourced through us and shipped to your door, or a budget aftermarket part on Amazon. Your call.

Moderate DIY$15–40

Oven temperature sensor (RTD)

A cold sensor reads ~1080Ω; open/shorted confirms it. Unclips inside the oven, unplugs behind the rear panel. Match your model.

Call a pro$90–250

Oven control board

Rare — only if a known-good sensor still throws F3. Confirm before buying.

Prices shown are typical aftermarket ranges and vary by brand and model — genuine OEM is priced by quote when you request it. Amazon links open a search so you can match your exact model number; as an Amazon Associate, Appliance Ant may earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. Always confirm the part fits your model.

Can you fix it yourself?

Safe to Try · Know the Risk · Call a Pro

General guidance, not professional advice. Always unplug the appliance (or shut off the gas/water) before you check anything. If it feels beyond you, that's exactly when to get a pro.

✅ Safe to try yourself

  • Let the oven cool; check the sensor probe isn't touching the oven wall.
  • With power off, ohm-test the sensor (a cold RTD reads ~1080 ohms).
  • Check the sensor plug behind the rear panel is seated.

⚠️ Doable — know the risk

  • Temperature sensor replacement — moderate; cut power at the breaker (240V), unclip and unplug the sensor.

🛑 Call a pro — don't touch this

  • The 240V wiring, or an oven control board you're unsure of.
Is it worth fixing?

The Honest Call

Worth it — the sensor is $15–40 and 20 minutes versus $700+ for a new range.

In Middle Tennessee or Louisiana?

Don't want to DIY it? Our own family of technicians will come clear that F3 for you — honest flat pricing, usually same-day, 4.5★ from 1,000+ neighbors.

🔧 Get it fixed by our techs →
FAQ

People Also Ask

What does F3 mean on an LG oven or range?
An oven temperature sensor fault — the sensor reads open or shorted so the oven can't regulate temperature (exact meaning varies by model). Usually a cheap sensor replacement.
How do I fix an LG F3 code?
With power off, ohm-test the oven temp sensor — a cold RTD reads about 1080 ohms. Replace it if it's open, shorted, or out of spec; it unclips inside the oven.
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