DC: Door not closed/locked (dE / dC)
- Door Latch/Switch
- Strike Misalignment
The Tools to Test + Fix With
You don't need a shop full of tools — you need these. The multimeter is the one that pays for itself the first time it stops you buying the wrong part on a fault code.
Digital multimeter
Test a suspect part for continuity BEFORE you buy — the single best way to avoid replacing the wrong thing on a fault code.
🔎 On Amazon →Nut driver set (¼" + 5⁄16")
Most appliance panels are held on with ¼" and 5⁄16" hex screws.
🔎 On Amazon →Screwdriver set (Phillips/flat/Torx)
Covers the odd panel screw and the Torx fasteners many brands use.
🔎 On Amazon →The Fix — Free Checks First, Then the Part
Work top-down: the free checks before you spend a dime, and test to confirm the part is actually bad before you buy. When it is a part, you get both options — the genuine OEM part sourced through us and shipped to your door, or a budget aftermarket part on Amazon. Your call.
No part — re-close the door firmly
Make sure nothing is caught in the seal and the door clicks shut. A load pushing on the door can also fake a DC.
✅ No part needed — try this firstDoor lock / latch assembly
If it latches physically but still shows DC, the lock switch has failed. Match your model.
Prices shown are typical aftermarket ranges and vary by brand and model — genuine OEM is priced by quote when you request it. Amazon links open a search so you can match your exact model number; as an Amazon Associate, Appliance Ant may earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. Always confirm the part fits your model.
Safe to Try · Know the Risk · Call a Pro
General guidance, not professional advice. Always unplug the appliance (or shut off the gas/water) before you check anything. If it feels beyond you, that's exactly when to get a pro.
✅ Safe to try yourself
- Open and firmly re-close the door until it clicks.
- Check the rubber boot fold and door strike for a trapped sock or debris.
- Make sure the load isn't overstuffed and pushing the door open.
⚠️ Doable — know the risk
- Door lock assembly swap — moderate; unplug first, remove the boot clamp or front panel to reach it.
🛑 Call a pro — don't touch this
- A wiring/harness fault to the lock, or a control-board issue.
The Honest Call
Cheap either way — free if it's just re-closing, $20–50 for a door lock. Never a reason to replace the washer.
In Middle Tennessee or Louisiana?
Don't want to DIY it? Our own family of technicians will come clear that DC for you — honest flat pricing, usually same-day, 4.5★ from 1,000+ neighbors.
🔧 Get it fixed by our techs →